Process of weaving and apparatus therefor



May 23, 1933.

up- 01w- M. DELAMARE DEBOUTTEVILLE 1,910,595

PROCESS OHWEAVING AND APPARATUS THEREFOR Filed Aug. 12, 1930 4 Sheets-Sheet 1 "FIGS.

M y 2 1933- M. DELAMARE DEBOUTTEVILLE 5 PROCESS OF WEAVING AND APPARATUS THEREFOR Filed Aug. 12, 1950 4 Sheets-Sheet 2 FIGA- Wand (/27 1) Wow w ILA/Kt",

y 23, 1933- M. DELAMARE DEBOUTTEVILLE.

PROCESS OF WEAVING AND APPARATUS THEREFOR Filed 12 19:0 4 Sheets-Sheet a "mud mm mun w 4a MM y 1933- M. DELAMARE DEBOUTTEVILLE 5 PROCESS OF WEAVING AND APPARATUS THEREFOR gi led Aug. 12, 1930 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 FIGS Patented May 23, 1933 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE MAR/GEL DELAMARE DEBOUTTEVILLE,- F NEUILLY-SUR-SEINE, FRANCE rnocnss or WEAVING AND 'arrnm'rus 'rizmmron Application filed August 12, 1930, Serial No. 474,807, and in France August 14, 1929.

My invention has for its object an improved process of weaving on dobby or J acquard looms and apparatus facilitating the carrying out of the improved process.

Inipresent methods of weaving the warp threads are passed through the eyes of successive shafts or hooks (according to whether (lobby'or Jacquard looms are used) in repeated succession or with reversal of order. This is shown diagrammatically in Figure 1 of the accompanying drawings in which the horizontal lines 1, 2, 3,4 represent four shafts and the vertical lines a 6 0?, d represent the warp threads passed through the eyes of these shafts; the left hand part of the figure shows threading in repeated succession and the right hand part threading in succession with reversal of order.

According to my invention a pattern is 2 woven on aground by a method in which the members of the loom (shafts of a dobby or hooks of a jacquard) causing the warp threads to move to form the shed are grouped into two or more sections, one or more sec-. tions being moved as a whole at each pick throughout the weave in a predetermined order to form the ground-and one or more individual members being moved in addition where the pattern occurs, the succession of combinations of shafts or hooks of the general order of sections and of shafts or hooks being so arranged that at least any two successive combinations have no shaft or hook in common.

It will be understood that in general certain-warp threads will be raised'to form the shed but all that is stated in the description and the claims must be understood to be equally applicable to a loom in which particular warp threads are lowered to form the shed.

In the following description, for the sake I of. simplicity, mention will only be made of the shafts of a dobby loom, but all that follows would apply equally well to a Jacquard loom.

According to a further feature of the invention improved mechanism is provided for carrying-out this method of weaving. In 5 this mechanism the harness comprises two or more groups of shafts, each of which groups may be divided into sections as described above, and will be raised according to its own'shedding diagram, andthe eyes are each connected by two or more heald cords to shafts in different groups in such a manner that whatever the complexity of the effective threading diagram, the actual threading diagram to the eyes follows a simple law such as that for calico weave or twill.

Guiding grids are preferably provided for the cords so that the shafts and the eyes move in a substantially vertical direction.

In the method'of weaving forming the subject of the present invention, the sections may vary as to the number of shafts they comprise. The different sections donot control constantly the warp threads of one and the same system, but at each picka new grouping takesplace, so that a section which controls threads for the ground, may control or influence, in the following raising, threads for the pattern. I Each of the' successive warp threads is passed to one of the shafts of one of thesesections, the order in. which the sections themselves and the individual shafts within each section succeed each other constitutes what will be called the general order of the sec-. tions and of the shafts; this disposition will be described hereinafter. This passa'geof the warp threads to the shafts will berepresented graphically by a broken or discontinuous line r of any complexity having this order as base.

To weave the ground of the material certain sections are raised alone or in groups and to weave the pattern which must show upon the ground there are lifted at the same time one or more shafts of sections other than those which produce the ground according to ashedding line which also may be represented graphically by a broken line of any iomplexity and having this same order as ase.

lln the case in which the raising of one or more of theground forming sections would produce interferences which would be destructive or injurious-to the pattern care must be taken to raise all the shafts oi. that section or those sections withthe exception of those which interfere with the pattern or convcrsely.

It is possible similarly in certain interesting cases to raise all the shafts of the sections intended to weave the ground, with the exception of certain shafts chosen systematically in accordance with the line of the design, for example the shafts which for each weft of the fabric for example the shafts which for each weft of the fabric precede and follow in the order of combinations the shaft or shafts of the design specified in the-shedding diagram. Theaccompanying drawings illustrate the invention. I

lln these drawings, Figure 1, which has already been referred to, shows customary methods of threading the warp.

Fig. 2 shows methods of warp threading according to the invention and sets out the division into sections.

Figure 3 gives details by way of example of a weaving diagram and the fabric produced. A simple diagram has been chosen for the sake of clarity.

Figs. 3, 3", placed side byside, constitute a diagram which is an enlargement of Fig. 3 with added details. The line of division between 3 and 3 corresponds with the vertical line zvw, Fig. 3.

Figure t shows diagrammatically three difierent orders of sections and shafts.

Figure 5 shows diagrammatically improved harnesses for a dobby and Figure 6 is a. detail.

in Figure 2 it has been assumed that the shafts are divided into three sections, section A comprising four shafts, section B six, and section C four.

llnstead or" passing the successive warp threads through one shaft after another as in Figure 1, they are passed through one section after another and in each section in a particular shaft (as indicated in the left hand part of Figure 2) adopting for example a diagram with reversal of order for the sections; a diagram with repeated succession could be just as well adopted in the sections as is shown in the right hand part of Figure 2. It will be seen that as represented at the left side of said figure the order is one of repeated reversal-a b 0 b (5 etc.-

retirees whereas the order represented at the right is one of repeated succession-n b 0 a 5 0 etc.

To determine the. threading of the warp threads through the shafts, one proceeds by a graphical method as set forth in the following description and as represented by the irregular or broken line a, b, c, d, etc. in the upper left hand part of Figures 3, 3 taken together which give a threadin diagram.

Immediately at the right 0 said broken line a, b, 0, etc., is a vertical column of numbers composed of three vertical lines of digits, the first line being headed by the letter 0, the next by B, the next by A representing the three sections of the example under consideration. The figure 4 just above the letter C indicates that section C comprises a shafts; and the figures 6 above B and 4: above A have a like significance.

In this diagram the characters A1, B1, G1, etc., are not used both for lack of space and also to avoid complication. Instead the symbols as for section A, 0 for B and for C are employed. Throughout the diagram, Figs. 3, 3", symbol :22 indicates the warp threads comprised in section A, 0 those of section B, and those of section C.

It will be seen that the broken line a, b, c, d, etc. is formed by a succession of these symbols.

In said vertical column of numbers the figure 2, for example, in line one (that under C) signifies C2; figure 3 in line two signifies B3, etc.

Thus it will be understood that the numbers in the first line of the vertical column represent the shafts 1, 2, 3, 4: of section C; the numbers in the second vertical line represent theshafts 1, 2 '6 of section B, and so on. In the following description, however, for the sake of simplicity, the shafts will be designated C1, C2, G3, etc., B1, B2, B3, etc. As will be seen by reading vertically down each of the three lines of the column, the shafts are repeated in each section in consecutive order: 1, 2, 3, 4 (line C); l, 2, 3, 4i, 5, 6 (line B), etc. ltmay therefore he said that the order of the shafts is consecutive. 0n the other hand, the order of the sections A, B, G is one of repeated reversal. This will be seen by reading the numhers consecutively in either direction as they follow a zig-zag course. llhus, from the bottom upward the sections occur in the order: C, B, A, B, C, etc.

As already stated, the irregular broken line a. b, c, d, e represents the threading diagram and shows the order of the warp threads to the shafts, which are supposed to have a vertical direction in respect to the plane of the figure (see arrows f1).

. From what has been said above itwill be understood that the said vertical column would read,if the characters A1, B1, G1, etc.,

'- consecutive sections is calle were used instead of the corresponding symbols, 'as follows: 2

A B C A8 m B5 A4 B C4 1 etc Any three'consecutive sections from ri ht to left, or vice versa (as A1, B1, C1, or 1, B2, A2) constitute a combination.

Tlfim foregoing explanation of the vertical GOlHmIi -Of figures applies in general to the three-fold horizontal line of figures, wh ch represent the-shedding diagram, and which is referred to below.

If this diagram is examined, 1t will be seen that: warp thread No. 1, that s, the thread marked at the very beginmn of the pattern line a, b, 0, etc., is passed to s aft- 4 of section 0, warp thread No. 2, the one next above and to the right, is passed to shaft 3 of section B, warp thread No.- 3 is passed to shaft 4 of section A, and so on.

Of course for the threading diagram any other line could be adopted than the line a b c d e f, etc., shown in the upper part of Figure 3 and corresponding to the design which it is desired to produce on the material. For a. given order of sections and shafts an infinity of threading dia rams'can be envisaged which will give wit appropriate shedding'diagrams families of iflerent designs.

In the order of sections and shafts the succession of shafts of a com lete group of a combination. Thus in the example shown, the order of sections and shafts comprises (reading from the top of the column) the combinations A. B. 0,, 0, B2 A2,,A, B. 0.. etc.

far as the combination A B C Now if one considers for example the com-.

bination A, B C (the ninth from the top) it will be seen that it is necessary to go up as the third from-the top) and down as far as t e combination A, B C (the fifteenth) to find other combinations having a shaft, B common to admissible.

which is measured by the number of shafts which separate the two successive repetitions of B is what one may call the absolute freedom, equal here to 12. It is in fact necessary that in every order of sections and shafts a given combination should have no shaft in common with at least the preceding and the following combination. This is the condition as will be seen later, for obtaining purity in the lines of the pattern.

The lower right hand part of Figure 3 shows the shedding'diagram, that is to say, the order in which the shafts of the sections must be raised to form the pattern which it is desired to obtain. This is repeated in Fig. 3, 3" where it is represented by an irregular broken line m, n, o, p, composed of the same symbols as line a, b, c, d, etc.

The three-fold line or column of numbers, which extends across the sheet just above the middle line thereof, shows as before-- the order of sections and shafts but arranged horizontally instead of vertically.

The vertical order of passage to the shafts and the horizontal order of shedding correspond with each other in such a way that the horizontal line passing, for example,

through a shaft A ofthepassagetotheshafts cuts the vertical line passing through A of the shedding onan axis at 45 cal-led axis. of multiplication of the two diagrams; the

. f2 indicates the direction of the weft threads.

If this diagram is examined it will be seen that I The first opening of the warp making a shed for the first pick causes the shaft 0, to rise, as indicated at adjacent to the beginning, m, of the line. Directly above this symbol will be found a figure 4 in the horizontal lineC, thus indicating the shaft C The second opening of the warp making a shed for the second pick causes the shaft B to rise, as indicated by symbol 0 and the number 3 directly above.

The third opening of the warp making a shed for the thirdpick causes the shaft A, to rise.

The fourth opening of the warp making a shed for the fourth pick causes the shaft B to rise, and so on.

' But at the same time as the pattern, it is necessary to weave the ground of the fabric and this ground must be so chosen as to avoid too great floats of weft and warp or at least floats not greater than those considered to be To weave the ground the sections are raised in accordance with a cychclaw depending solely on the ground chosen in accordance with the possibilities of the order.

If in the case considered (that is to say in the case of the three'sections A B C) the three sectionsA B C are raised consecutively with reversal of order (which is the order in which warp threads are passed successively and alternately to the three sections) a three shaft cross twill will be produced; if on the contrary the sections A and C are raised together alternating with B alone, a ground make the ground according to the general pattern it is desired to obtain on the fabric.

If for a calico weave there are raised'for example in alternation sections A. and C together (to the shafts of which all'the odd warp threads pass) and section B alone (to the shafts of, which all the even warp threads pass) it will be seen that the shaft (1; which already rises to make a shed for the first pick of the pattern also rises withthe group A C for the ground, and that thus 'no pattern will appear in this part of the fabric. For the second pick of the pattern it is necessary to raise, as seen above, the shaft B but if at the same time all the shafts of section B rise for the ground, there again the pattern will be swallowed up by the ground and nothing will appear.

It is therefore necessary so to choose the sections or groups of sections to raise for the ground as not to destroy or injure the pattern; The shafts operating for the pattern must for this purpose never be the same as those operating for the ground or interlacing.

1n the case considered it is possible to determine as follows the sections or groups of sections to raise for interlacing at the same time as the pattern;

With the shaft C for the patternsection B will be raised for interlacing,

With the shaft B for the pattern sections A and C will be raised for interlacing,

With the shaft A for the pattern section B will be raised for interlacing,

With the shaft B for the pattern sections A and C will be raised for interlacing, and so on for successive picks.

There is thus obtained a calico weave ground on which the design will show very clearly and which not only will not destroy the pattern but will also strengthen it by trebling the line proper of the pattern as can be seen by examining the lower left hand part of Figure 3 which shows the fabric obtained with its pattern. llt will be seen that to the thread for the pattern (1,, above referred to, are joined in combination, because of the ground, the two warp threads B and Ar -and so on for all the other threads for the pattern so that the line of the pattern is trebled by the ground. This pattern is obtained by multiplication of the threading diagram by the shedding diagram. As before, there are shown by 0, by and by m the warp threads passing to the shafts vof sections B, C and A respectively. Fur- The second shedding causes'the shaft B 7 to rise for the pattern and all the shafts of sections A and C for interlacing; it produces by the picking of the second weft the second horizontal line of the pattern D.

The third shedding causes the shaft A to rise for the pattern and all the shafts of section B for interlacing. It produces by the picking of the third Weft the third horizontal line of the pattern D, and so on.

The shafts C B A etc., give by being successively raised the principal pattern which is shown surrounded by a. thick continuous black line. This principal'pattern further results automatically from the multiplication in a kind of geometrical way of the broken lines a b 0 etc., 971. n 0-, etc., of the threading and shedding diagrams. The raising of these shafts also produces a secondary pattern shown by +s, 0s and ws from place to place on each of the horizontal lines representing successive picks; this secondary pattern, which remains soft because discontinuous, results .from the raising of warp threads belonging to other elements of the line a b 0 cl, etc., of the threading diagram than those which correspond to the element consideredof the line m, n, 0, 7, etc., of the shedding diagram.

If the basic order of the sections and shafts has been suitably chosen this secondary attern will be in perfect harmony with the principal pattern and this is one of the fundamental and indispensable reasons for the existence of these harmonic dispositions.

The raising of the shafts of section B, then of sections A and G, then of section B, then of sections A and C, etc., will give the calico weave ground shown by the dots near the centre of Figure 3.

In order to have a clear separation of the principal and the secondary pattern, the shafts must be arranged in each section in such a way that a determined combination i. e. the succession of the shafts of a complete range of all successive sections in con templationhave no common shaft and more generally that a given combination be as far as possible from the combination having with it one or several common shafts.

The above example has only been given by way of a non-limiting example; of course by adopting a different order and different lines for threading and shedding diagrams a practically limitless variety of patterns would be obtained.

Figure 4 shows three other examples out of the many possible orders. The first (on the left) shows four sections comprising respectively- 4, 6, 4 and 6 shafts with order of sections in successionand shafts in succession. The second shows three sections comprising 4, 7 and 4 shafts respectively with order of sections in order with reversal and shafts in succession. The third shows three sections comprising 4, 7 and 4 shafts respectively with order of sections in order with reversal and shafts in order with reversal. .The most general order have any desired number of shafts or hooks per section, but the order of the sections is usually in succession or in order with reversal and the order-of the shafts in each section is also usually in succession or in order with reversal.

- As has been said before one may call combination a group of shafts each of which belongs to different sections taken consecutively. For example in the first order of Figure 4 the successive combinations are:

A1 B1 C1 D1 D2, etc.

It will be noted that in this order the initial combination A B C D is found again after 12 X 4=48 shafts; 48 .is what may be called the relative freedom or the field of relative freedom.

The absolute freedom is measured as explained previously by the number of shafts separating two successive repetitionsof the same shaft in the shortest section; in the particular case just mferred to from A of the combination A1 B1 C1 D1 to A1 of the combination A1 B5 C1 D5 there is a separation of 15 shafts and A is the shortest section (A=C=4 shafts) 15. is thus the measure of the absolute freedom for this order.

As has been indicated at the beginning this new process is applicable not only to looms working with a dobby, but also to looms working with jacquard mechanism.

Figure 5 of the accompanying drawings shows a'special type of harness particularly through the hole f of member 6.

suitable for carrying out on a dobby loom the process forming the subject of the pres ent invention.

This harness is made up of any suitable number of shafts a, which are the ordinary shafts of a dobby loom, and their function is to raise the warp threads which pass These shafts each support by means of hooks a metallic rod-b of rectangular section on which are hooked cords similar to.

those of the harness of the jacquard mechanism.

These groups are each made up of an upper double thread 0 attached to the upper hole 03 of an eye e, which has a hole f through it for the passage of the warp thread (Figure 6). The double thread 0 is booked at its upper part to the rods 1) of two different shafts a. To the lower hole d of the eye 0 is attached the end of a thread 9 which forms the lower part of the cord and on which is hung in the known way a lingo h.

The shafts o may be divided for example into two groups I and II, each of the double cords 0 ending then at its upper part in one shaft of the group I, and in one shaft of the group II.

At their upper part the shafts a are conon the cross pieces i of a fixed grid made up of a certain number of strips of wood 7' in which are drilled holes 11, the distance between which is equal to the division of the dobby. Into these. holes 9' are put rods of brass. The grid thus formed has the purpose of ensuring the accurate vertical displacement of the shafts a.

Below the eyes 0 of the cords there is a second grid or lower grid made of cross pieces 70 in which are drilled holes I in which are set for example rods of brass. This grid only comprises a small number of divisions, four or six for example, and its purpose is to make it possible to reduce the width of the harness at the height of the warp and to ensure a suitable and systematic sub-division of the lingoes h. By means of this arrangement the width of the harness mayfor example be only eight to twelve centimetres and is independent of the number of shafts of the loom.

The warp threads such as I may be just passed through theeyes e of the cords, in consecutive order for example, correspond ing to the sub-division of the eyes and consequently of the lingoes h, the order of passage of warp threads to the eyes having the purpose only of dividing and stepping the lingoes uniformly.

On the other hand, the effective threading ofthe cords to the shafts The double cords c from each eye are at tached both to a shaft of group I and to a shaft of group lill. so that one warp thread can be controlled at the same time by two different shafts.

The shafts may of course be divided into more than two groups and in that case there will generally be as many divisions of the cord from each eye as there are groups of shafts, and thus one warp thread can be controlled by as many difierent shafts as there and H methods of threading correspon ing to two different patterns intended to be comple-mentary to each other, each group of shafts participating in the interlacing or general ground by means of the sections of which it is made up.

As will be seen it is possible with harness of this kind comprising any desired grouping of shafts to utilize a very large number of combinations making it possible to produce any pattern and any ground desired with the greatest facility of execution in accordance with the process forming the subject of the present invention.

It will be understood from what has been already stated that, for the purposes of this invention, the shafts of a dobby loom and the hooks of a Jacquard loom are the equivalents of each other. Hence where a shaft is specified in the appended claims, it is to be clearly understood as signifying either the shaft of a dobby loom or the hook of a Jacquard loom:

What I claim is:

1. A harness for realizing the process herein described comprising several groups of shafts and in which the eyes for the warp threads are controlled through the intermediary of a double cord, by two difierent shafts controlled themselves by the hooks of the loom, the shafts and the hooks being thus divided into two groups working simultaneously or alternatively.

2. Harness as claimed in claim 1, comprising two guiding grids, one upper grid for the cords below the shafts and having the same division as the hooks of the loom and one lower grid for the lingo cords and having a small division. I

3. Harness as-cla'imed in claim 1, in which the warp threads are passed into the eyesfor instance in repeated succession--the threading to the shafts according to the threading diagram being replaced by a suitable hooking of the cord to the shafts controlled by the hooks of the loom.

:te sae 4. Process of obtaining on suitable looms fabrics having patterns of new type, characterized by grouping or ordering the shafts in groups or sections which follow each other in regular order (repeated succession or repeated reversal) each of said sections comprising a plurality of shafts also following each other in a predetermined order (repeated succession or repeated reversal); establishing with such an order as a base the shedding and threading diagrams; raising according to the shedding diagram the shafts which produce the pattern; and simultaneously raising to form the ground of the fabric all the shafts of one or several sections, according to the ground to be obtained.

5. In the process of obtaining on a suitable loom fabrics having patterns of new types, characterized by grouping or ordering the shafts in sections for repeated use, either in the same or reverse order, the step which consists in raising a certain section or group to form the ground of the fabric and simultaneously raising, to produce the pattern, one or more individual shafts belonging to sections other than those raised to produce the ground.

6. Process of obtaining on suitable looms fabrics having patterns of new types, characterized by grouping or ordering the shafts in groups or sections which follow each other in regular order (repeated succession or repeated reversal) each of said sections comprising a plurality of shafts also following each other in regular order; establishing with such an order as a base the shedding and threading diagrams; raising according to the shedding diagram the shafts which produce the design; and raising alternately after each weft of the design all the shafts of one or several sections to form the ground of the fabric.

7. Process of obtaining on suitable looms fabrics having patterns of new types characterized in that the shafts, instead of being actuated individually, are divided into groups or sections each composed of a different number of shafts from that of at least one of the other sections; which sections follow each other regularly in a determined order such as repeated succession or repeated reversal; the shafts in each section also following each other in a determined order, such as repeated succession or repeated reversal.

8. Process of obtaining on suitable looms fabrics having patterns of new types characterized in that the shafts, instead of being actuated individually, are divided into groups or sections each composed of the same number of shafts; which sections follow each other regularly in a determined order such as repeated succession or repeated reversal; the shafts in each section also following each other in a determined order, such as repeated succession or repeatedreversal.

lift

9. Process of obtaining on suitable looms fabrics having atter'ns of new types according to claim 4, c aracterized in that the shed-. ding and threading diagrams established on the basis of the order of the"sections, and the order of the shafts in each section are constituted by continuous lines respecting the order of the sections.

10. Process of obtaining on suitable looms fabrics having patterns of new types according to claim 4, characterized in that the-design is realized by raising successively the shafts indicated by the shedding diagram, and that the ground of the fabric is realized by raising simultaneously all the shafts constituting one or several sections other than those operated for the design.

11. Process of obtaining on suitable looms fabrics having patterns of new types according to claim 4, characterized in that the design is realized by raising successively the shafts indicated by the shedding diagram, and that the ground of the fabric is realized by raising, alternately after each weft of the design the shafts constituting one or several sections. a

12. Process of obtainin on suitable looms fabrics having patterns 0 new types accord ing to claim 4, characterized in that the generative continuous lines (axis of multiplication) and therefore the generative continuous lines or threading diagram (a 6 0d and shedding diagram (m n 0 p which lines determine the principal design to be realized, simultaneously determine in the order field a net of secondary discontinuous lines, which produce a secondary design weaker than the said principal design and which completes and harmoniously accompanies the same and distinguishes the fabrics made according to the method claimed from those obtained by the usual methods.

In testimony whereof I have signed this specification.

MARCEL DELAMARE DEBOUTTEVILLE. 

